Lions and cheetahs and wildebeests (oh my!)
The road to Masai Mara is, I think, the worst I’ve been on since I’ve been here (I feel like I say that every time I go on a new road). Seriously, this one was so bad, that when he could, our driver drove on the dirt next to the road, rather than on the road itself because of all of the potholes.
Once we got there, we stayed in a campsite for two nights that was much fancier than the one in Amboseli -- it had permanent tents with little beds in them. This turned out to be a good thing because it pored down rain both nights, but we stayed totally dry (and I doubt we would have in a little pup tent on the ground).
The campsite was operated my Maasai, and if you had to get up and use the bathroom in the middle of the night, a Maasai appeared next to you, seemingly out of nowhere, to take you to the latrines. I don’t know if this was just to keep people from getting lost and wandering off (the campsite was really dark), or to protect you in case animals came into the camp (people said they heard hyenas really close to the camp on the first night).
OK, I could go on, but I think I’m going to let the photos speak for themselves …
We saw three lions! This one was sitting on what looked like an abandoned road or bridge or something. (Don't worry -- that's a yawn, not a growl.)
We got a little closer to the cheetahs here than we did in Amboseli (and I figured out how to use the digital zoom on my camera).
Three cheetahs were sitting in the shade under this tree, which was really close to the road, so we sat in the minibus for a really long time watching them poke their heads up out of the grass, roll around, and sit up every once in a while. The cheetahs were adorable, but after a while I noticed just how beautiful the tree was, too!
Wildebeests!
This is us on the border between Kenya (Masai Mara) and Tanzania (Serengeti).
Hippos on the Mara River. At this point, we got out of the minibus and an armed Kenya Wildlife Serice guide took us down to the river (hippos are very aggressive and territorial). I didn't ask if his gun had tranquilizers or bullets in it, and luckily, we didn't find out.
Zebras -- I love the way they stand like this, it kind of seems like they’re hugging each other!

As we left the park on our last day, the light was just amazing.
That’s it for now! After two great weekends of traveling, I’ll be sticking around Nairobi this weekend and unfortunately spending a good chunk of it on my bluebooking assignment for journal (quite a bit less exciting than going on a safari, but I’m really not in a position to complain). Type to you all later!

11 Comments:
Erica, how do you make sure that the animals don't come up to your campsite and eat you? Where do you hide your food so they don't come after it (and you) at night? Your pictures are AMAZING! Nature is so photogenic :)
hugs,
Anuradha
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Anonymous, at 5:58 PM
I second Anuradha's questions and comments! I feel a bit repititous saying AMAZING pictures everytime you post, but really they are!
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Erin, at 10:43 PM
Thanks guys -- as Anuradha says, I've got a great subject!
About the animals getting into the campsite, I think that's why the Masai are always there (to be able to scare them away, if need be). Also, the campsites are all a little way from the park itself and up a big hill (so I think they're a little outside of the animals' general territory.
We hid the food in the minibus, and the campsite has a locked hut for food also. The only animals we really had to deal with in the campsite were the monkeys, who came every morning around breakfast to poke around for scraps (and they are not at all timid!).
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Erica, at 8:00 AM
My first thought when I hear monkeys is, "awww, how cute!" But monkey's looking for food is probably more like the flying monkey's from the Wizard of Oz... a bit creepy!
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Erin, at 8:59 AM
Yeah, I have had my run-ins with Monkeys in India. At first I think they are cute, but then they get close and they have teeth and nails to bite and scratch. Especially when looking for food, they can get a bit aggressive. But yes, when they are not after what I am eating, totally cute to see them playing around :)
Thanks for the clarification Erica. It is amazing how much I have been learning about camping lately! My friend who goes camping in the Candian Rockies tells me that they have to send their food up this big flagpole like thing to keep the bears away from it! That's crazy!
TTYL!
Anuradha
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Anonymous, at 5:40 PM
Those zebras are so cute and cuddly. Less so for the lion and cheetah - which really just look majestic! I've read a bit about the contoversy over the Masaai and the national parks. I would be curious to hear what your impressions were of the Masaai? Jennie
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Anonymous, at 6:29 PM
My first thought when I see monkeys is actually, "awww cute," too. But then I remember that I decided not to spend $700 on the rabies vaccine before I came here, so then I think, "stay away!" because I really, really, really don’t want to have to get all of those shots in my stomach if I end up getting bitten by one of them.
Jennie, I definitely have mixed feelings about the Maasai. The ones at our campsite were very nice and friendly, but every time that I’ve been to a national park near where the Maasai live, when we stop at the gate to pay the park entrance fees, they literally swarm the minibus trying to get us to buy things.
They’re really, really aggressive and they don’t take no for an answer. Once, we even closed all the windows on the minibus, but the top was still up (where you stand up to see animals), and they started dangling things down through the open roof to try and get us to buy them.
It’s really uncomfortable and off-putting. I try not to get too annoyed though -- the land that was Masai Mara National Park used to be theirs before the government took it and turned it into a National Park, and they’ve got to deal with tourists gawking at them all the time. So, I’ve learned the Swahili words for "no, I don’t like it," and "no, I don’t want it," and I just keep saying them as politely as possible until we're able to enter the park.
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Erica, at 9:40 AM
To whom does the park entrance fee go? Do the Masai get a cut? Did the government really just take the land from them (like the U.S. government did to our Native inhabitants)? Or, did they purchase the land from them? Are the Masai employed in the park or are they just there to help out in the hopes of getting tips from the visitors?
Anuradha
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Anonymous, at 5:39 PM
Hey Anuradha,
Unfortunately, I don't know the full story. I do know that for the parks that are "official" National Parks, the Kenya Wildlife Service is supposed to get the fees (although there's a lot of skimming off the top by tour operators and KWS employees, unfortunately -- there's a link to a BBC article about that somewhere in the blog).
However, at least one park, Amboseli, has actually been changed from a National Park to a National Reserve, and its ownership was transfered to the local Maasai, so they're the ones who get the fees.
Some of the campgrounds -- including, I'm pretty sure, the one we stayed at in Masai Mara -- are also owned by the Maasai. I know that there are movements to try and make tourism more ecologically and culturally responsible, and to help solve some of the land-related conflicts between the traditionally nomadic Maasai, the Kenyan government, and private landowners.
Hope that clears things up a bit!
Cheers,
Erica
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Erica, at 6:56 PM
wow. incredible pictures erica!
keith
(baltimore, md)
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Anonymous, at 7:19 PM
Hey Keith, thanks for stopping by and glad you liked the photos! Hope all is well in B'more!
By
Erica, at 3:22 PM
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