Swahili
Well, I didn’t leave Nairobi this weekend, so unfortunately I don’t have any new wildlife photos to post. I actually spent a good chunk of the weekend in my office working on finalizing clerkship applications (thanks again Mom for collating them and taking them down to school!) and working on my journal bluebooking assignment. Not so much fun. But, I did get some shopping done, which was great (more on this later).
So, instead of posting photos, I’m going to write about the little bit of Swahili I’ve picked up since I’ve been here.
Mzungu = White person
Wazungu = White people
Jambo = Hello – I might be paranoid, but I kind of think that when Kenyans say “jambo” to a mzungu, they’re kind of making fun of him/her, and that when a mzungu says “jambo” it’s kind of annoying to Kenyans – just as Americans who only learn “bonjour” and “merci” are kind of annoying to the French. So instead of saying, “jambo,” I say …
Salama = Hello – I really like the fact that this greeting comes from the Arabic word for “peace.”
Lala salama = Good night (literally, “sleep peacefully”)
Habari? = How are you?
Nzuri = Good/fine
Because just about every house has a security guard that stands watch at the front gate, and because my walk to/from work passes alongside about 1 km of the wall surrounding the American Embassy that is dotted with security guards, I pass a lot of them in the morning and evening. Sometimes I say hi in English, and sometimes I use some of the Swahili above. Unfortunately, I can’t for the life of me remember how to say “good morning” in Swahili, so that one always comes out in English. I look it up all the time, but I just can’t seem to commit it to memory.
Tafadhali = Please – People in Nairobi don’t really say this very often. I heard it more in Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar.
Karibu = Welcome/You’re welcome
Assante (sana) = Thank you (very much)
Sawa (or sawa sawa) = Okay/sure/fine – People here say this ALL THE TIME. If there’s one thing I accidentally say when I’m back in the US, it will be “sawa.”
Hakuna matata = No worries – but if someone says “hakuna matata” to you, it’s often a signal that you should be worried (i.e. “you’ll definitely make it in time to catch that ferry, hakuna matata” means you might not catch that ferry).
Sipendi = I don’t like it
Sitaki = I don’t want it
Samahani = Sorry/excuse me
Khuli sana = It’s too expensive
These last four have come in very handy while shopping in the Maasai Market and the Triangle Curio Shops. Maasai Market is just a hillside downtown that’s stepped so that people can set out their merchandise – crafts like jewelry, bowls, carvings, bags, baskets, batiques, and masks – flat on blankets on the ground every Tuesday. It is so, so crowded, and the pathways between the merchants are so tight that “samahani” comes in very handy (both for when you need people to move out of yoru way and for when you accidentally bump into someone/step on their foot). The Triangle Curio Shops are a bunch of stalls that are permanently located on a triangle of land between three roads in Westlands (a suburb) that have the same type of crafts as Masaai Market.
In both places, people are always coming up to you and trying to get you to buy their merchandise. And they’re really pushy about it. So it can be kind of difficult once you’ve shown interest in something – or if you’re just standing waiting for a friend to buy a mask or something and haven’t shown any interest at all – and “sipendi” and “sitaki” work a little better than “I don’t like it” or “I don’t want it” in getting people to leave you alone.
Finally, “khuli sana” helps in the bargaining process. When I first started going to the markets, I really didn’t like it. A) I’m what you’d call a comparison shopper – I don’t buy the first thing I see, I like to think things over and compare different items. B) I hate bargaining/haggling. Neither of these are good things when you’re trying to buy things in the markets. You’ve got to quickly pinpoint what you want and then you have to bargain like crazy to get it.
However, after going a couple of times, I’m really starting to like it – it’s kind of an adrenaline rush, and it’s really cool to buy something and then see it for sale in a store for 2 or 5 or 10 times what you paid for it in the markets. I’m sure I’m still getting ripped off, and the merchants are like, “hahaha, stupid mzungu” as soon as I leave, but I know I’m doing the better than the tourists who stick to the “real” stores, so I’m happy. Also, just in case anyone is afraid that I’m ripping off the merchants, they’ll never sell at a loss, so I know that if they accept my offer of what I’m willing to pay, they’re making money off the deal.
Anyway, now that I’ve gotten the hang of bargaining, I have to be careful not to buy too much (I am on a student budget and I do have to get everything back home to the US in two suitcases in a month, after all), and I’ll also have to be careful not to come home and start trying to bargain with the clerk at the Gap about the price of a pair of jeans!
That’s it for now – lala salama everyone!
So, instead of posting photos, I’m going to write about the little bit of Swahili I’ve picked up since I’ve been here.
Mzungu = White person
Wazungu = White people
Jambo = Hello – I might be paranoid, but I kind of think that when Kenyans say “jambo” to a mzungu, they’re kind of making fun of him/her, and that when a mzungu says “jambo” it’s kind of annoying to Kenyans – just as Americans who only learn “bonjour” and “merci” are kind of annoying to the French. So instead of saying, “jambo,” I say …
Salama = Hello – I really like the fact that this greeting comes from the Arabic word for “peace.”
Lala salama = Good night (literally, “sleep peacefully”)
Habari? = How are you?
Nzuri = Good/fine
Because just about every house has a security guard that stands watch at the front gate, and because my walk to/from work passes alongside about 1 km of the wall surrounding the American Embassy that is dotted with security guards, I pass a lot of them in the morning and evening. Sometimes I say hi in English, and sometimes I use some of the Swahili above. Unfortunately, I can’t for the life of me remember how to say “good morning” in Swahili, so that one always comes out in English. I look it up all the time, but I just can’t seem to commit it to memory.
Tafadhali = Please – People in Nairobi don’t really say this very often. I heard it more in Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar.
Karibu = Welcome/You’re welcome
Assante (sana) = Thank you (very much)
Sawa (or sawa sawa) = Okay/sure/fine – People here say this ALL THE TIME. If there’s one thing I accidentally say when I’m back in the US, it will be “sawa.”
Hakuna matata = No worries – but if someone says “hakuna matata” to you, it’s often a signal that you should be worried (i.e. “you’ll definitely make it in time to catch that ferry, hakuna matata” means you might not catch that ferry).
Sipendi = I don’t like it
Sitaki = I don’t want it
Samahani = Sorry/excuse me
Khuli sana = It’s too expensive
These last four have come in very handy while shopping in the Maasai Market and the Triangle Curio Shops. Maasai Market is just a hillside downtown that’s stepped so that people can set out their merchandise – crafts like jewelry, bowls, carvings, bags, baskets, batiques, and masks – flat on blankets on the ground every Tuesday. It is so, so crowded, and the pathways between the merchants are so tight that “samahani” comes in very handy (both for when you need people to move out of yoru way and for when you accidentally bump into someone/step on their foot). The Triangle Curio Shops are a bunch of stalls that are permanently located on a triangle of land between three roads in Westlands (a suburb) that have the same type of crafts as Masaai Market.
In both places, people are always coming up to you and trying to get you to buy their merchandise. And they’re really pushy about it. So it can be kind of difficult once you’ve shown interest in something – or if you’re just standing waiting for a friend to buy a mask or something and haven’t shown any interest at all – and “sipendi” and “sitaki” work a little better than “I don’t like it” or “I don’t want it” in getting people to leave you alone.
Finally, “khuli sana” helps in the bargaining process. When I first started going to the markets, I really didn’t like it. A) I’m what you’d call a comparison shopper – I don’t buy the first thing I see, I like to think things over and compare different items. B) I hate bargaining/haggling. Neither of these are good things when you’re trying to buy things in the markets. You’ve got to quickly pinpoint what you want and then you have to bargain like crazy to get it.
However, after going a couple of times, I’m really starting to like it – it’s kind of an adrenaline rush, and it’s really cool to buy something and then see it for sale in a store for 2 or 5 or 10 times what you paid for it in the markets. I’m sure I’m still getting ripped off, and the merchants are like, “hahaha, stupid mzungu” as soon as I leave, but I know I’m doing the better than the tourists who stick to the “real” stores, so I’m happy. Also, just in case anyone is afraid that I’m ripping off the merchants, they’ll never sell at a loss, so I know that if they accept my offer of what I’m willing to pay, they’re making money off the deal.
Anyway, now that I’ve gotten the hang of bargaining, I have to be careful not to buy too much (I am on a student budget and I do have to get everything back home to the US in two suitcases in a month, after all), and I’ll also have to be careful not to come home and start trying to bargain with the clerk at the Gap about the price of a pair of jeans!
That’s it for now – lala salama everyone!

6 Comments:
What is the exchange rate like? Do you get a feeling that the cost of living is expensive/inexpensive for the "average" Kenyan?
Anuradha
By
Anonymous, at 5:21 PM
Sounds like you are making up for all the shopping that didn't get done in Geneva! ;-) As my summer job winds down I am taking some personal internet time and have been reading your entries -- and feel as close to Nairobi as I ever will without actually going myself. I truly can't believe some of your pictures - Stunning! Post-law career perhaps?
I am so sorry to read about your grandfather; you wrote a beautiful tribute to him.
I am thinking of you often, and looking forward to what comes next!
Linsey
By
Anonymous, at 7:10 PM
Ooh, I had fun practicing all the words. They seem manageable. What is the sentence structure like?
By
Erin, at 9:35 AM
Hey Anuradha – I actually think that Nairobi is pretty expensive for "average" Kenyans. I think that what happens is that a lot of people come from the country, expecting to find good jobs in the city, but then since there’s such a huge labor pool, employers are able to pay really low wages. I think that’s one of the reasons that about 60% of the population of Nairobi lives in the slums.
Honestly, this is one of the reasons that I like to go shopping in the markets rather than in more "official" stores – I think/hope there’s a better chance of my money actually going to the people who made the crafts/grew the fruit/etc. Also, there are a couple of fair trade shops that are run by community-based NGOs, and I feel pretty good about shopping at them as well.
And Linsey – you’re totally right, I did practically no shopping at all last summer, so I’m simply making up for that now! Good to hear from you and glad you’re having a bit of a break between your internship and the start of the school year. We’ll definitely have to compare notes about this year’s summer jobs.
And Erin – I don’t know too much about sentence structure, except that individual words are actually more like phrases, and you change the phrases by putting on or taking off different prefixes. There can definitely be more than one prefix for a single root word – it’s kind of like the more prefixes you add, the more complex the phrase you’ve just created. Does that make any sense at all?
By
Erica, at 4:44 PM
Hey! Wow. Some of those words are very similar to Malagasy. It's funny how language works that way, even for two countries that are so different in so many other ways! I mean, Madagascar has very little Arabic influence, but "salama" means hello and "health" there as well. Also, Alec is super jealous of your pictures of lions. Hope all is fun! By the way, this clerkship stuff is terrible. One of these judges better hire me or else I'll be really annoyed.
--Jessica
By
Anonymous, at 4:29 AM
Interesting -- I think that Swahili is part of the Bantu family of languages. Do you know if Malagasy is as well?
By
Erica, at 2:06 PM
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